My question is ,about my 1997 Honda Civic ,it is work good but 3 week ago I hear one sound very weird and little vibration on front wheels , this happen when I drive around 30 to 40 miles or less something, this is not the tie rod ends and when the mechanic drive me car for test not happens nothing ,so i don’t’ know really ,what can I do ? thank you”
Vibrating front ends and noise can be caused by many things. First, jack up the car and spin the tires to see if they are out of round of if a rim is bent and fix that if you see a problem. If not, then go to a good front end shop and have the front tires checked for balance and the front end checked for alignment. ALSO, check the front wheel bearings, as they make a nasty humming sound as they begin to wear. You can’t often feel any play in wheel bearings when they first wear, but a good mechanic on a road test can use his ears and tell you if a bearing is starting to wear out BEFORE the wheel actually has play in it when you jack it up and check it manually.
“My car shakes and lunges forward when I put on the brakes??”
You’ve got a problem in the front end. First, have the front of the car jacked up and check the suspension parts out for wear. It could be a worn ball joint OR tie rod. BUT, if the suspension is OK, then it would be in the brake system. Commonly, warped front brake rotors will cause shaking and lunging when the brakes are applied, ESPECIALLY when stopping from higher speeds quickly.
” We have a 1996 Mitsubishi Outlander and it was running good til lately it is making a loud noise like screeching when you start it but it will go away as soon as I drive the car I wonder what is wrong with it.”
You probably just have a worn, loose fan belt. Have the fan belts checked. Tighten them up if they are loose, and replace any that are cracked and worn. Also have the water pump and alternator checked, because if their bearings get worn, it will make the fan belts get loose and screech. BUT, normally it’s just a loose or worn fan belt.
“I just bought a used 1995 Ford F-150. A/C is not working, the Compressor seem in good condition as well as the compressor clutch, how can I check to see if I’m getting juice to the Com..connector and if I can test the Com..clutch by getting direct current from car’s battery to the connector in the compressor.”
To see if you’re getting electricity to the compressor clutch, just get a simple ten buck test light from any auto parts store. Stick the clamp end on any ground on the truck, and poke the sharp end into the line going to the compressor. If it lights up, you have power. If it doesn’t light up, then get a jumper wire and connect one end to the positive terminal of the battery. Connect the other one to the power feed on the AC clutch that you just checked, and see if it starts spinning when the truck is running. If it does, then you’ve lost power and will either have to trace the whole system down, or just rewire a new power supply to the compressor. If it doesn’t spin with power, then the clutch is worn out and you’d need a new compressor and possibly other work. good luck,
“I have a Mercedes c180 classic 1997 when i first start the car in the morning the car has a jerking problem but once it has reached the operating temperature the jerking stops. It happens again if i start the car after and hour or so. Any advice please let me know.”
Jerking can be either in the engine or the transmission. So, you have to discover in which system the problem exists. FIRST, have it scanned to see if any trouble codes are stored in the computer. Whether the check engine light is on or not, there can often be trouble codes stored in the computer to help discover where the problem lies. Hopefully yours has some codes stored, because if not, then it’s much harder to discover where the problem lies. It could be an ignition problem, a fuel problem, or a transmission problem. From my experience in those Mercedes with such a problem, it often lies in the fuel injection system since it runs fine after it warms up. So I’d check that system out first if no trouble codes exist in the computer.
What to do when you check your ac and pressure is too high (on red)
I assume you mean red on the pressure gauge. That means the pressure is too high in the system. I also assume you mean red on the low pressure side (where you add refrigerant.) Common low side problems that cause high pressure are a broken compressor, a bad expansion valve, or cooling fans that aren’t operating correctly. Good Luck,
“Hi me again..I,m still working on the 95 F- 150. I found the a/c, cruse control and radio not working..all fuses seem OK under the dashboard and under the hood, could it be the on board computer that is not helping with all this components work as they should?”
It could be, as the body control module does operate all of those accessories. But, of course, it could also be a wiring problem. You’ll be best tracing the wiring from the fuse box where the power still exists to wherever the power stops existing. So, if power goes from the fuse to the control module but not out of the module, then the module would be bad. Good Luck,
“I have a 2006 Impala LS. Yesterday I noticed a slight hissing noise coming from the vehicle. It’s like some metals grinding each other with rhythm and the problem is only obvious at the between 20-35 mph. I guess it is from the rear wheel on the driver’s side. I cannot hear it if I close the window or drive at speed higher than 40. What could it be and how can I pinpoint the problem?”
Pull off the rear wheels and check to see if anything is rubbing, you’ll see rub marks in the area that’s hitting stuff. Also check the rear brakes to make sure the pads aren’t just worn down to the metal. Most noises in the back will leave telltale rub marks, so look closely when you pull off the wheels, inside the rims and where the tires may be rubbing against body work.
“I own a 2000 Chevy Prizm STD and I am in real trouble. The vehicle drinks oil like a hell. After a 600 miles trip, the low oil pressure blinked. I took out the dipstick when the engine was cool and found there was not a drop on the dipstick. I kept adding oil at every fill-up to get home. No leaks, no blue smoke out of the exhaust pipe, but there are indeed some oil stains on the engine and intake conduit. Weird thing is the mechanic inspection found other normal wear and tear but nothing with the engine! I have read some guys complaining the same problem and tried some remedy by using higher grade engine oil combined with oil additives. The outcome is unsatisfactory if any. It still burns heavily, about 1 qt/ 250 mi and 1 qt/100 mi once going above 60 mph. What’s wrong with it? Is it still fixable or I need to get rid of this lemon? PS: the 3 spd transmission really sucks. The lack of OD makes the engine rev high on the highway :(“
First, change out the PCV valve on the engine. If it gets stuck open, raw oil will get sucked into the engine and you’ll lose a lot of oil. Hopefully that will fix it. But if not, have wet and dry compression readings done on EACH cylinder in the engine. Then you’ll know the true condition internally inside the engine. If the pressures are bad on any of the cylinders, the engine is just plain worn out. Let’s hope it’s just a bad PCV valve, I have seen that happen more than once. And yes, their trannies are REALLY bad, I’ve seen scores of them just go out and they end up sounding like coffee grinders when they do.
“Alot of cars these days have a oil life % display on their dash. My question is should you change the oil when the car idicates to change it or should you do it routinely at 3000 miles. I always wondered how reliable the onboard oil monitor sysem is. God Bless!”
Well, I’m a dinosaur man myself and change the oil every three thousand miles, but my cars are all OLDER than dirt. On the modern high end cars, those oil percentage displays use a whole combination of driving sensor feedback to the computer and graphs to come to a time when the computer feels is right for the oil change. Theoretically these figures are quite accurate–WHEN they work correctly. I’ve seen too many of them personally that had broken down and never gave a time to change the oil. So I’d stick to the old standbye three thousand mile figure as a general rule myself (unless you’re using synthetic oil which can go eight thousand miles or more.)