Hi all, was wondering if anyone knows if its possible to change the rear wheel bearings on an 1982 opel corsa without a set of hydraulic pullers, ie with a hammer and punch and install the new ones with the same…… appreciate any comments Murray”
Well, my data system doesn’t have opels in it as they aren’t sold in the states anymore. BUT, the first car I owned was an Opel. Being a poor kid, I changed bearings out with hammer and punches and long pipes to reach into areas you can’t get to otherwise. If you’re inventive, you can do it. BUT, be REALLY careful putting the new bearings on. You don’t care if you destroy the old ones, but be careful where you hit the new ones (that’s where a pipe that fits exactly on the outside race of the bearing comes in handy.) Good Luck,
Ronnie Becnel’s question:
Hey, just got a 57 caddy that hasn’t been turned over in 22 years. What the best advice to prep engine before starting/turning the crank. Have you used Ultra one’s product in an engine block. Any advice is appreciated.”
OK, I’ve never used Ultra one, so I can’t give advice on that. BUT, since that baby has sat for SO long, do this: First, remove all the spark plugs. Then squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil (all auto parts stores and hardware stores sell it) into each spark plug hole. Then let it set for a couple of days. That stuff really loosens up rust and corrosion. Then get a new battery and crank the engine over with the spark plugs out. Hopefully it will crank over (though the starter motor may also be shot by now and you might have to put a new one on.) If the motor won’t turn over, then get a long cheater bar with a socket that fits on the end of the crankshaft in the middle of the harmonic ballancer. Try turning the engine over by hand. If you finally get the engine to spin, then spin it a while until the oil you put in the plug holes has splashed out. Then put in the spark plugs and prime the carburetor with a little gas and hope it fires up. good luck,
2003 Saab 9-5 has engine oil floating in the radiator overflow bottle. I’m the only one who goes under there, so I know something’s wrong, nobody could have poured it in there. Please tell me I don’t need a head gasket job.”
OK, you don’t need a head gasket job, there. Although, of course, you might indeed need one. BUT, I fixed one a couple months ago with the same problem. Since the owner told me he had never overheated the engine, I doubted the head gasket was blown as he only had thirty thousand miles on the car. In his case, the oil cooler that is under the manifold had sprung a leak, and coolant got mixed in with the oil that way. Let’s hope yours has the same problem, it’s a WHOLE lot cheaper than tearing that engine down.
” The ac controller and the windshield wipers don’t turn on at all.What should I do?”
Well, then you should just drive where it isn’t hot, and doesn’t rain (I couldn’t resist that one.) To fix it, first check out the fuse box to see if you have any blown fuses, it could be that simple. But, if it’s not a blown fuse, then odds are you have two different problems. If that’s the case, wiper motor assemblies generally are the part that breaks in most cars. And if you have a GM vehicle (you didn’t mention what kind you have), the AC controllers themselves go bad ALL the time in them and need replacing.
My 97 Explorer is driving me nuts. It won’t pass the emissions test because it has codes for bank one and bank two running lean. The stupid thing runs fine, but keeps tripping these codes. What can I do?”
Well, quite a few things can cause those two lean codes to pop up. BUT, since you mentioned it’s running perfectly fine, then odds are you have an intake manifold gasket VERY small leak. Other problems that trip that code will generally make the truck run bad. Small vacuum leaks in the intake manifold will often not effect the running in any way you’ll notice. It is a pretty expensive job replacing the intake manifold gaskets, so you might try an old trick first (as long as it runs fine otherwise.) Have the computer reset with a scan tool, then drive on the highway going sixty mph for about thirty miles so the computer system will get itself ready and be able to pass the emissions test. (If you don’t drive it far after resetting the computer, you will fail the test because it will say that there are too many MILS not ready in the vehicle.) Then, if the check engine light doesn’t come back on, quick go and get it inspected. If the leaks are really small, the check engine light may not come on for a while, giving you enough time to get it inspected.
Another question about the struts on the 1993 Pontiac Sunbird. Never worked on struts before… is it smarter(easier)to replace the spring/strut as a unit, or replace just the strut(car does bottom out pulling into driveway)? How hard to take them apart? Will I need special tools? And finally, do I need to purchase new bearing plates and/or strut cushion/mounts (if I just replace the struts), or do the new ones units come with new bearing plates? Thanks for all of your GREAT advice!!! Paul”
Basically, you should just replace what’s worn out. If the bearings are broken or their rubber mounting torn, replace them. If not, use them over. And there’s no sense replacing the springs if they aren’t cracked. Most stores don’t sell the entire unit with springs anyway, and those that do generally charge a small fortune for each one. You can either rent a spring compressor tool to do the job, OR, if stores like Auto Zone do the same in Buffalo as they do here in Houston, they will loan you the tool if you buy the strut replacements from them (not a bad deal.) With a spring compressor, it’s a pretty easy job.
I just finished watching you video about tire repair. I was just wondering how long do those sealants last? Should I replace the tire as soon as possible or will the sealant last til the life of the tire itself? “
It really depends upon what has caused the leak in the tire. If it’s a small crack, it can seal it for the life of the car. If it’s a nail or a piece of glass, you need to remove the offending item from the tire and at least plug the hole because this foreign object will continue to move about in the tire as you drive and create new leaks. And of course, always look at how much tread is left on the tire. Because most tires get flats because the tread is wearing things and stuff like nails and glass then can rip holes in this thin tread and cause a flat.
Joel Booth’s question:
THANKS FOR THE TIPS ON MY JEEP. I HAVE ONE MORE QUESTION YOU MIGHT ANSWER, I ALSO HAVE A 1994 MAZDA B2300 TRUCK 132,000 MILES. MY PROBLEM IS THAT WHEN IT GETS WARMED-UP THE ENGINE TENDS TO SHUT DOWN ABOVE TWO THOUSAND R.P.M.S WHEN GOING UP A GRADE. I CAN SHUT OFF THE ENGINE AND RESTART AND THEN GO ANOTHER MILE OR SO AND IT DOES IT AGAIN. THIS IS WITH A FULL TANKS OF GAS. I HAVE HAD NEW INJECTORS INSTALLED WITH NOR RESULTS. WOULD THIS BE FUEL FILTER, COMPUTER , EGR VALE, OXYGEN SENSOR ,FUEL SHUT -OFF VALVE , IGNITION SWITCH ETC. ARE THERE ANY COMMON PROBLEMS WITH THIS MODEL YEAR, RECALLS THANKS FOR YOUR HELP JOEL
I once saw one due exactly that and it was the automatic transmission going out, it would stall the engine down only when going up an incline, but that’s exceptionally rare. I have also seen bad fuel pumps or a clogged fuel filter do the same thing, so definitely change out the fuel filter first, it could be that simple. Always start with the simple things first, like the filter, then the pump if that doesn’t work. There are no recalls for that type of problem in that Mazda, I checked.
hi thx for the advice about tmy squeaky car, it has got so bad now that i will take it to a garage to be checked over. i do have another problem tho, i wonder if you can help. i recently had the front wheel bearing replaced, as it was making a noise. the garage said i will need to have the hub changed as well, since it was also damaged. the bearing stopped making for a while but the wheel is squeaking again, but not when i apply the brakes. also the noise is intermittent. like something is out of alignment, similar to a bicyle wheel when it catches on the brakes pads. could this be the hub/bearing or something else entirely. your help is much appreciated. thx michelle”
Odds are they didn’t do the job correctly when they did the wheel bearing job in the first place. IF the hub was bad, and that is rare, then they should have replaced it when they did the wheel bearing. They could have easily damaged the hub when replacing the wheel bearing, OR they could have bent something in the front end, such as the brake dust cover, which would now make noise. I see that a lot in wheel bearing work (though mainly in ones people try to do themselves and don’t have the experience in doing it correctly, it’a a Royal Pain job in some cases and people get frustrated and start inadvertently bending things.) If I were you, I’d go to a different mechanic and see what they say. And as the previous mechanic has already had a couple of chances and hasn’t satisfied you, I’d stop going to them.
If I replace the spring/ strut assembly in my 1993 Pontiac Sunbird, will I NEED to get a front end alignment?”
IF you mark the exact bolt position of the old one and put the new one back in the same exact position, the alignment would be OK if the strut assembly was made correctly. Most guys will realign the front end after such work because they doubt if the new assembly was made perfectly. Try putting it together, and if it doesn’t pull or shake at speeds of around 65, then it would be OK. If it did, then get it realigned.