Archive for the 'Dodge' Category
I have a 1995 dodge neon . and I really think i can change my own front wheel bearings. please If u have any help ..step by step .. i very much would like to know .. thank you . Trying to save the good ole dollar here.. thanks . Harry”
Here it comes: Taking off the struts and the tie rod ends and the drive axle and the ball joints is pretty simple. It involves just unbolting all the parts and moving them out of the way. BUT, getting the bearings out is a much harder endeavor. I usually advise people to just remove the hub themselves and then take it to a mechanic or machine shop with the special tools to press the old bearings out and the new ones in. BUT, if you want to know what’s involved, and what tools you’ll need, here goes: DISASSEMBLE All steps of the hub bearing removal from steering knuckle must be done using a hydraulic arbor press. Install bearing splitter tool No. P334 , or equivalent, on steering knuckle and hub/bearing assembly to support steering knuckle when pressing out bearing. Hub, Bearing & Steering Knuckle Supported For Removal Of Hub Position steering knuckle and hub/bearing assembly in vise, support by splitter tool No. P334 , or equivalent. Position driver tool No. 6644-2 , or equivalent, on small end of hub, then press hub from bearing. The one bearing race may come out with hub when hub is removed from bearing. Hub Bearing Removal Remove bearing splitter from steering knuckle, then place steering knuckle is press supported by press blocks. Place bearing driver tool No. MB-990799 , or equivalent, on outer race of hub bearing, then press hub bearing completely out of steering knuckle. Install bearing splitter tool No. P334 , or equivalent, on hub so it is between flange of hub and bearing race remaining on hub. Hub Bearing Race Removal Install assembly into press, then place driver tool on end of hub and press hub out of hub bearing race. ASSEMBLE Install new bearing into bore of steering knuckle so it is square with bore, then place steering knuckle in press with receiver tool No. C-4698-2 , or equivalent, supporting steering knuckle. Place driver tool No. 5052 , or equivalent, on outer race of hub, then press hub bearing into steering knuckle until it is fully bottom in bearing bore of steering knuckle. Install hub bearing retaining snap ring into groove in hub bearing bore of steering knuckle. Ensure snap ring is fully seated. Hub Bearing Installation Place steering knuckle with hub bearing installed in press with receiver tool No. MB-990799 , or equivalent, supporting inner race of hub bearing. Place hub into hub bearing ensuring it is square with bearing. Place driver tool No. 6522 , or equivalent, on front face of hub, then press hub into bearing until it bottoms in hub bearing.
My 98 Intrepid stalled on the road and won’t start up. I checked the fuel and there is no fuel pressure at all. The fuses and relays are fine, but the pump won’t work. So I hot wired the pump, and it worked fine then. What should I check for now?”
Well, I’d check the wiring going to the fuel pump next. This wiring goes under both the front and the back seats on that Dodge. I’ve seen the wires rub under those seats and then short out before. Especially if you live in a cold northern part of the world, as the wires seem to get brittle and then break. Good Luck,
My 98 Caravan won’t run at all. We’ve had it towed to two different shops and no one can figure it out. They both told me there are no trouble codes, and they just can’t find why it won’t run. HELP!”
With no trouble codes to go by, fixing a car can be a royal pain. Of course, when I was young, cars didn’t have trouble codes so we had to figure them all out from scratch. Now I assume the two mechanics you used checked all the obvious like a possible bad fuel pump or a bad ignition system, so I’ll rule those out here. On many of those Caravans, as they age, the wiring harness wears from rubbing on the top of the automatic transmission where the wiring bundle touches the transmission. When it wears through the insulation, the main wiring harness there will short out. You will often get no codes with such a problem, and it is a REALLY common problem with those mini van, so have them check that out first. The last one I fixed was easy, when I knew where to look. The first one I did had me pulling hairs.
” We replaced the idle air control valve on our 2000 Dodge Durango, and the vehicle still dies when coming to a stop. Sometimes it dies more violently than others. Sometimes it won’t die at all. It’s almost as if the brakes have some sort of secret switch that kills the engine when applied. (I’m just being silly here, but it’s a good description.) Any other ideas on what might be wrong? Thanks!”
The idle air control valve is ultimately controlled by the main computer, so sometimes that is the VERY expensive problem. BUT,more commonly, vacuum leaks on the intake system cause stalling when coming to a stop. Look for loose vaccum lines or sucking sounds when the engine is running. Mechanics like myself use smoke machines to inject smoke into the intake system and look for where the smoke comes rising up to find such leaks. So start looking for vaccuum leaks under the hood and hopefully it’ll just be a loose or cracked vaccuum hose.
“Hello, I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota. The AntiLock Break light comes on when I go speeds of 70mph. It stays on until I shut the vehicle off and does not light up again unless I go 70mph. I have replaced the speed sensor on the transmission, didn’t help. No change. I am stumped. Any ideas what the problem is? And yes the wise answer is don’t drive 70mph… not really funny anymore everyone says the same joke… :)”
Somehow your anti lock brake system is breaking down at seventy miles per hour. Now you changed the sensor on the transmission, BUT there are also sensors at the wheels, which are the more common ones that go bad on that vehicle. You could also have a problem in the wiring, or even the main ABS computer to trip that code. Diagnosis without a lot of experience and some REALLY expensive computer software is pretty much impossible, other than just guessing with replacing parts. I’d advise finding a Chrysler mechanic who knows ABS inside and out. He’s probably seen that exact problem before and could figure it out pretty quick. BUT, on the plus side, ABS systems are fail safe, so when that dumb light comes on, you still have normal, non ABS functioning brakes. I have TONS of customers driving around with the ABS light on in their vehicles when they discover what the repair costs would be (some ABS accumulators cost over seventeen hundred dollars.)
My 2000 Dodge Caravan with the four cylinder engine is leaking engine oil on the back of the engine. I though it could be the valve cover gasket, so I replaced it. But the leak is still there. I can’t figure it out, give me a hand
Well, you might not like the hand I’m giving you. On the back side of that engine, there’s really nothing that can cause engine oil leaks other than a blown head gasket or a cracked engine head. I did one a couple months ago, the head gasket had blown in the back and oil was coming out of it. This is a pretty expensive repair, so before you go that far, put some ultraviolet engine oil leak dye into the engine oil. Then see if the green dye is coming from between the head and the block at the back. If so, you’ll need to take that engine apart. By the way, it is a pretty common problem in those four cylinder Dodge products
I’ve got an 04 Caravan with the 3.8 engine. It’s running bad, and have trouble code P0016 stored. The book says it’s a crankshaft or camshaft misalignment problem. I was told it could be a timing belt problem, so I pulled the covers and everything lines up perfectly. What should I check next?
Well, you may not like this, but here’s a common problem with those vans. The flexplate on the flywheel can come apart on those engines. To figure this out, you will have to pull the transmission off to see if the flywheel assembly is broken. When it does break, the signals from the crankshaft position sensor will be all wrong and set the P0016 code. I’ve seen this happen a lot in those dodge vans
1992 Dodge Dynasty 4 speed automatic transmission. Rebuilt 6 year ago. won’t shift from 1st gear. Changed fluid and filter. Didn’t help. Need your help!!
I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings, BUT it’s probably the tranny gone out again. Check the shifter to make sure it isn’t sticking in the low gear position (the cables sometimes go bad and won’t select drive) because this happens occasionally. In the olden days, cars had vacuum modulators that shifted the cars and when bad they would stay in first gear. BUT, yours is computer controlled and has no such part. Do have a good tranny mechanic check the computer system out first though, because it might be a solenoid in the transmission and not need a total rebuild again. Realize you’re not the only one in this boat, I’ve seen scores of Chrysler products have their trannies rebuilt three and even four times. They are pretty weak items.
Richard’s Question: I was servicing my 2004 Dodge Neon, and noticed that the power steering fluid color was getting pretty dark. It used to be pretty light colored. Should I be worried about this?
Dodge Neon 2004
Answer: Well, it’s really a good idea to have your power steering fluid flushed out and changed every three or four years just to keep debris out of it. Considering the high cost of replacing a power steering pump or a clogged steering rack, this is good preventative maintenance. So I’d change the fluid out if you haven’t done that yet. BUT, don’t rely on the color of the fluid in that Neon. The fluid that Dodge uses in them just naturally turns darker over time. Dodge has put out a bulletin telling how this dark color itself doesn’t mean anything is wrong.
Marky’s Question: My 2004 Dodge Ram Pickup Truck keeps turning the ABS light on. And when it comes on, the brake light also comes on and sometimes the speedometer goes up and down randomly. what’s going on?
Answer: Yes, this is a pretty common problem in areas where it rains a lot. The main anti lock braking (ABS) controller under the hood has a large electrical connector on it. It often gets full of water when it rains, due to drainage on the truck and the position of the connector. Unplug it and look inside. If it’s all wet and/or corroded, clean it off really well with spray electrical cleaner. Then put dielectrical grease on the connector inside BEFORE snapping it back together. This will stop water intrusion from bothering it anymore. I see this an awful lot in those Dodge trucks.