Archive for the 'Mercedes Benz' Category

1992 mercedez benz 300e hard shifting in 2nd and a little in 3rd

Roger’s question:

i have a 1992 mercedez benz 300e,its automatic transmission doing hard shifting in 2nd and a little in 3rd, what shoud i do? and the second,its ac system doesnot cool good its info shows r12 required but no more available, any subsitution?”

Answer:

Your transmission is probably just wearing out, due to age and mileage. BUT, if you can find a good transmission man who really knows those Benze trannies, he might be able to adjust the bands to make it shift better for a while. As for the AC, just have the system converted to 134A refrigerant, you use an 80 percent load compared to the R12, and put in six ounces or so of PAG refrigerant oil (as the old mineral oil with R 12 does not mix with the 134A refrigerant.)

Mercedes C180, i checked and saw that there is no fan in front of the radiator except the only one which sits behind it, also the car has no A/C

Kay’s question:

regarding the Mercedes C180, i checked and saw that there is no fan in front of the radiator except the only one which sits behind it, also the car has no A/C. What do you think the cause would be?”

Answer:

Since the car has no AC, it doesn’t have that auxilliary AC electric fan on it. Only a Mercedes tech is going to be able to check to see if your fan is working right because of its complex design. If the fan is working OK, then odds are you’ll need a new radiator as it wouldn’t be dissipating the heat correctly. those Radiators are made of plastic and only last So Long.

Merc c180 with the heating problem

Kay’s question:

Hi , coming back to the merc c180 with the heating problem. Upon starting the car i can see that the fan spins (fan which sits near the radiator), does that mean that the fan is working or could there still be a fault?”

Answer:

Well, the problem is that the fan may not be spinning at the correct speed at the correct times. Those Mercedes use an insane computer controlled electronic clutch system to drive that fan blade (yet another example of overengineering in a German car.) And realize there should also be an auxilliary electronic motor fan on the front side that should come on when things get hot and when you use the AC system. Let the car idle a while with the AC on, and then open the hood and listen for that electric fan to kick in. If it doesn’t kick in, then get it fixed BEFORE summer heat gets here. If you find the car runs much cooler on the highway then it does in stop and go traffic, then you definitely have some type of cooling fan problem that should be taken care of.

Mercedes 1997 C180 overheating at idle

Kay’s question:

Hi , I have just bought a Mercedes 1997 C180 which has done 69k miles. I drove it for about 10 miles without any problems but when i went to get the car washed, i left the car running for about 15 minutes, i realized that the temp gauge was almost hitting the 120 degrees heat mark but once i started to drive it again the temp gauge was going down a little bit. Is that a problem or is it normal?”

Answer:

No modern day car is really made to sit and idle for fifteen minutes just sitting, especially if the AC is on. The catalytic converters will get hot, and the cooling system will be overtaxed. That said, you should have your cooling fans checked to see if they are all coming on correctly when the engine does get warmer. Because if the car runs perfect at highway speeds but runs a lot warmer when in stop and go traffice, then the cooling fans would be suspect (as you don’t need any extra wind through the radiator when you already have 60 MPH winds when driving that speed.)

1989 MERCEDES 300E STALLS and STARTS AFTER 3-4 TURNS

George’s question:

” 1989 MERCEDES 300E STALLES STARTS AFTER 3 4 TURNS TRIED NEW ALTINATOR AND FUEL PUMP FILTER NO LUCK THANKS GEORGE/”

Answer:

those old 6 cylinder benzes generally all burn a lot of engine oil as they age due to their poor valve design. So first, pull out the spark plugs and see what they look like. If they’re all burned and covered with black crud, that’s burned oil. Replace them and see what happens (and realize if the plugs are really clogged that the engine is just plain wearing out.) Now if you put in new plugs and it still stalls out, then odds are you have a fuel system problem. Have the fuel pump pressure and volume tested to see if it’s wearing out. That old fuel injection system is a mechanical system, and if the fuel pressure isn’t exact, it won’t run worth beans. The mechanical fuel injection distributor under the air filter will also often get clogged up and may need to be taken apart and cleaned (only a good mechanic should ever try that, they are VERY touchy about correct settings.) You must realize that your car has mechanical (not electrical) fuel injectors which operate like inverted bicycle tire valves. ANY dirt or corrosion wrecks havoc with them,and they will not operate correctly without the exact pressure that they were designed for. Good Luck,

Mercedes Benz 300TE hydraulic rear suspension

Luis Segovia’s question:

I have a 1989 Mercedes Benz 300TE. It has hydraulic rear suspension. My fluid reservoir is empty and there are signs of a leak in one of the rear struts. My two struts are completely compressed. I used a jack and when the suspicious strut extended a bid, I saw fluid running down; is this self lubrication? Is my strut leaking?. How would you tested? What is the best way to purge the system ( i must now have air in the lines.) Thanks Luis “

Answer:

The struts should be bone dry, so the wet one is certainly shot and needs replacing, and man, those babies aren’t cheap. After replacing the leaker, try bleeding it at the connection by making it a tiny bit loose, running the car, making it tight and repeating this a few times, just like bleeding brakes.

2001 Mercedes S500 (Code PO120) Accelerator Pedal Sensor

Aron’s question:

“My 2001 Mercedes S500 is running poorly. The check engine light came on, and the code stored is PO120, something about the accelerator sensor. Have you seen this before?”

Answer:

That’s the code for Accelerator Pedal Sensor problem. The last one I fixed was repaired by replacing the pedal sensor, which comes as a complete pedal assembly only from Mercedes. It’s rather like a computer mouse that tells the vehicle’s computer how much acceleration you need for how far you’ve pushed the accelerator pedal down. They don’t use accelerator pedals anymore to open the engine throttle, they use computer sensors and electrical motors to move the throttle instead.

Car shaking when cold (Mercedes c180 classic 1997)

Khalid’s question:

“I have a Mercedes c180 classic 1997 when i first start the car in the morning the car has a jerking problem but once it has reached the operating temperature the jerking stops. It happens again if i start the car after and hour or so. Any advice please let me know.”

Answer:

Jerking can be either in the engine or the transmission. So, you have to discover in which system the problem exists. FIRST, have it scanned to see if any trouble codes are stored in the computer. Whether the check engine light is on or not, there can often be trouble codes stored in the computer to help discover where the problem lies. Hopefully yours has some codes stored, because if not, then it’s much harder to discover where the problem lies. It could be an ignition problem, a fuel problem, or a transmission problem. From my experience in those Mercedes with such a problem, it often lies in the fuel injection system since it runs fine after it warms up. So I’d check that system out first if no trouble codes exist in the computer.

How To Determine Oxygen Sensor Location?

Jason’s question:

I’ve got a bad oxygen sensor on my 2002 ML 500. The code said bank 1, sensor one. I see four sensors on the car. Which one is this?

Answer:

bank1-sensor1-locationBank one sensor one is the oxygen sensor on the driver’s side exhaust, just past the exhaust manifold. For all those out there, bank one is always the bank where the number one cylinder of the engine is. Using any other terminology just confuses things, like left side or right side (since this really depends upon where you are– sitting inside the car or standing in front of the hood.) And number one sensor is always the sensor before the catalytic converter, with number two being the sensor after the catalytic converter.



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