Archive for the 'Ford' Category
Hank’s question:
I have a 1998 Ford Expedition and am losing power. Can’t roll up windows or anything. Already replaced the alternator a month ago and battery 3 months ago when the same problem occurred. Any suggestions? Thanks”
Answer:
It sure seems like you’re losing electricity again. THE most common problem doing that in your Ford is a bad alternator OR bad wiring going to the alternator. Most people end up purchasing rebuilt alternators when they buy one, BUT new ones are MUCH better. I see some guys going through five or six rebuilt units over a two year period if they get poorly rebuilt alternators. So definitely have your alternator checked out, and if it’s bad, get a different brand that’s better made. And as I already said, pay close attention to the electrical connections on the alternator, as Fords will often corrode from heat and then the bad wiring will ruin the new alternator.
Charlie Montoya’s question:
My Ford Explorer Sport 1996, 141,000k does not go forward but can reverse. The o/d light turned on before the problem. What do you think the problem may be and how much do you think it will cost me to fix? Hopefully this can be fixed without having to install a new transmission.
Answer:
Well, unfortunately every one I’ve ever seen like that had to have the transmission removed from the vehicle and either rebuilt or replaced. Last One I did like that had a bad sun gear. Reverse works backwards from the other gears, so sometimes broken bearings can let it go backwards, but not forwards. Those are VERY weak automatic transmissions, and the OD light is used to warn you that the transmission computer has a trouble code stored in it. You might just have it scanned to see what the code is, but as I said, all the ones I’ve ever seen like that needed expensive work. But, you never know, the transmission trouble code may be for something that can be done without having to remove the transmission (like valve body work which can be done by just removing the tranny pan instead.) If you need to remove the transmission, I would advise using an already rebuilt tranny from a rebuilding factory rather than fixing yours, as it is more cost effective in most cases.
Mary’s question:
My 2004 Ford pickup is idling bad and the check engine light came on. Auto Zone said the code was P0022, something about the cam actuator. Have you seen this before, and how can I get it fixed?”
Answer:
That code often pops up when the cam’s get out of time. And commonly in those Fords, the timing chain gets off time because the tensioner gets old and stops maintaining the correct tension on the chain. Sometimes the timing chain tensioner guide will also wear out. Have a mechanic check out the timing chaing tensioner and guides, they probably are worn. I see that quite often in those trucks.
Demetri’s question:
” My 2004 Ranger won’t start sometimes. I brought it to the dealer, but they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. Now, two weeks later, it’s still not starting sometimes. HELP!”
Answer:
Well, since the dealer couldn’t find anything wrong, there wouldn’t be any trouble codes stored in the computer. SO, first check the stuff that won’t trip computer trouble codes when they go bad. The number ONE problem like that is fuel pressure. The computer in your Ford has no idea what the fuel pressure is, as there are no fuel pressure sensors on that vehicle. So change out the fuel filter, and have the fuel pump pressure tested. The last one I fixed like that had a weak fuel pump, and when I replaced the fuel pump, the vehicle never failed to start again. But try the fuel filter first, because it could be clogged up and cause the same symptoms.
Wallace’s question:
” The check engine light on my 98 Windstar van came on last week. The codes are P 1512 and P1538, something about the intake manifold runners. These parts are expensive, is there any way I can check them?”
Answer:
There are some really complicated tests a mechanic can do with all his tools and gauges, but with those Windstars there’s a pretty good test you can do yourself. Get a cheap little vacuum pump with a built in pressure gauge at any auto store (less than thirty bucks at Auto Zone the last time I looked.) See if either of the intake runner modules will hold vacuum pressure once you remove their vacuum lines and hook up your little pump with the gauge on it. If they don’t hold vacuum pressure, then they are shot and need replacing. They should be sealed tight and not lose vacuum pressure if they are not mechanically broken. Many commonly leak in those vans when they go bad.
Sdenson’s question:
“97 Ford Expedition Windshield washer is Full, But on dash says washer Fluid low, Can hear pump but no fluid squirt out on windshield”
Answer:
You’ve got two problems. The sensor on the squirter is broken, saying you’re low on fluid when you aren’t. You can just disconnect the wires to it if you want. Now if you hear the pump humming, but no fluid comes out, then disconnect the squirter hose near the pump and see if it squirts out. If it does, then somewhere between the pump and the squirters is clogged up. It’s usually the squirter nozzles themselves or that little connector near them that restricts the fluid.
sdenson’s question:
“How windshield washer fluid get from front to rear washer reservoir 97 Expedition 4.6 EB”
Answer:
It should feed off the washer reservoir that’s under the hood, it feeds both front and rear squirters on the one’s I’ve worked on. Often the lines will get clogged with crud and need to be blown out with compressed air. And sometimes you need to back blow pressure into the nozzle in the back with the line disconnected so the crud will be removed from the system and not get plugged further down the line.
Joe’s question:
“Hi me again..I,m still working on the 95 F- 150. I found the a/c, cruse control and radio not working..all fuses seem OK under the dashboard and under the hood, could it be the on board computer that is not helping with all this components work as they should?”
Answer:
It could be, as the body control module does operate all of those accessories. But, of course, it could also be a wiring problem. You’ll be best tracing the wiring from the fuse box where the power still exists to wherever the power stops existing. So, if power goes from the fuse to the control module but not out of the module, then the module would be bad. Good Luck,
Hopp’s question:
“I have a 98 Ford Taurus 3.0. I have a squeaking noise that seems to be coming from the alternator. The sqeaking continues even while driving. Any suggestions?”
Answer:
Either the alternator bearings are wearing out, or the belt is worn, OR the automatic tensioner is worn out causing the belt to slip. Normally, an actual squeak is the bearings in the alternator wearing out. You can get a rebuilt unit from a discount auto store for less than a hundred bucks.
Shawna’s question:
“Hi , We recently changed our radiator out in our 02 Ford Focus (it had a large gash in it, most likely from road dbpris flying up into it). Since changing it, the cooling fan is very loud when it is engaged and running. It is not running hot, so should we be concerned about this issue? If so, what steps should we take to fix it? Thank you.”
Answer:
OK, first, make sure that the fan blades aren’t touching any part of the radiator or the plastic shroud that holds the fan. THEN, if it isn’t, remove the fan assembly and run it directly from the battery with little jumper wires. It could just be that the fan motor is worn out and wobbling. And this wobbling may have been what caused a gash in the radiator–the wobbling blades could have cut a hole in the radiator.
