“97 Ford Expedition,How to trace washer fluid hose from front to back hatch window”
Take the back hatch inside cover off first, usually the problem is at that end. If not, then you just have to take all that plastic crap off the inside of the vehicle to acess the actual hoses going through. And that isn’t much fun, so let’s hope it’s just inside the hatch.
I have a 2005 ford f-150 that curently has a lot of brake pedal travel. I have adjusted the brakes with a disc/drum set-up, but is there anything special to do with this truck sine it has 4 wheel discs? Thanks
Discs automatically adjust themselves, but if their slide pins stick they may not adjust right. So first pull all the wheels off and take the callipers off and ensure they are sliding smoothly and not sticking. If they stick, replace the sticking ones. BUT, in those trucks, many times the brake master cylinder just wears and causes that extra travel. So you might just replace the master cylinder if you can’t find any physical problems anywhere else. And if at all possible, use a larger diameter brake master cylinder, as ford offers such larger internal diameter cylinders for many of their trucks to compensate for a brake system that has too much travel in it.And of course, a larger diameter brake master cylinder gives you more powerful brakes due to the higher pressure they can send to the callipers. I’ve fixed a bunch of them simply by installing a larger internal diameter master cylinder on them.
Jimmy’s question:My 2005 Econoline van is running poorly and the check engine light is on. I had it scanned and the code is P2107, something about the throttle actuator. What does this mean?
Well, everything today is done electronically, including the throttle plate on your van. The computer has found something wrong with this system. BUT, before you start buying some VERY expensive parts, check the wiring going to the throttle actuator on top of the engine. I’ve seen vans that have too short a wire going to the actuator, and this short wire rubs on the hot EGR tube and then melts the wire. Once the wire melts through, it shorts out against the tube and trips that code. It could be a simple fix like fifty cents of new wire spliced in so it doesn’t short out anymore.
Have a 2004 ford ranger 4×4 with 6cyl 4.0 liter. Owned it since it was new. has just over 50k miles, all pretty easy going just in town miles… dont really haul too much, I noticed when i was sitting in the truck the other day and all was quiet, while in park, the engine kind of stutters, maybe better described as “flutters”. you cant really hear anything abnormal, its nice and quite you can just tell that it doesnt have a nice smooth “purr” anymore, im not sure most people would even notice. im not much of an engine mechanic per se, but the first thing that comes to mind might be plugs or some sensor, oxygen or something, i honestly have no idea.. again, no strange noises, you can just kind of feel the truck shake or vibrate a litte to where you know the engine has that shutter to it… Any ideas of things to check or try first, I have done no maintenance to the truck other than oil changes to date..
One other thing, just though of, when you are moving very slow, like backing up out of garage or something, when you turn the steering wheel, there is kind of a “whining” noise, but not the power steer pump, it could almost be called a squeaking noise, but it would be a dull squeak sound, almost as if something is rubbing, doesnt do it when you are out on highway and such or moving probably over 10mph or so… in fact it probably mostly does it when the vehicle is still… like adjusting tires before backing or pulling forward… it sounds more as if it’s in the cabin, and not out at the steering pump, “i know what that sounds like and its not anything like that… the truck was in a front end collision couple of years ago, but all was repaired and I dont recall the sound back then after the repairs and there wasnt even any damage to my knowledge that got into the suspension or anything.. it was fairly minor maybe go into the radiator support or something…
Well, it sure sounds like it may have something to do with the wreck you had. Those power steering pumps are really touchy about having the pulleys bent slightly and then they make odd noises as they wear. SO, if I were you, I’d remove the fan belts and see if the noise goes away. If it does, then it’s got to be something the belt drives- -like the power steering pump. If the noise doesn’t go away with the belts off, then it would have to be something else. But it sure sounds like a belt driven noise to me.
My 2004 Ford 250 van keeps eating up rear brake pads. The inner pads on both sides wear out, while the outer pads still have over half their thickness left. I’ve done two brake jobs in the last year, and it keeps wearing the same. I even changed callipers but to no avail. What can I do to fix this?
I’ll bet you drive it where there’s a lot of dirt and mud. Ford knows about mud jamming in the callipers, and has redesigned the dust shields that are located behind the callipers. The older shields had too big a gap and dirty mud would get by them and jam up the pads. So take a trip to the Ford dealer and buy a pair of these new shields. That should stop this problem in its tracks.
My 2002 Focus bogs down at times when I’m going fast. No one can seem to figure out what’s wrong. It just runs fine, then I can’t go over sixty miles an hour. No trouble codes are stored at all.
Of course there are many things that can do that, but most will trip a trouble code and turn the check engine light on. It’s generally fuel problems that won’t trip a code, as the engine computer doesn’t have a sensor for the fuel pressure. SO, first, change out the fuel filter, it could be that simple. If that doesn’t do it, then have the fuel pump tested for correct pressure and volume. If either is low, replace the pump. Good Luck,
Ford Focus 2002
Answer: Well, first, make sure you used good brake shoes. Don’t just go to any discount auto store and buy the lowest price shoes available. They will often make noise. AND, when you installed the shoes, make sure you put some silicone brake lubricant grease on all the inside contact points of the brake shoes BEFORE you put the shoes back on. If you don’t do this, then the metal on the brake shoe backing will rub against the metal on the hub plate and make a lot of squeaking– especially when you stop quickly (the faster you stop, the more the shoes vibrate, the louder the noise.) So, it may be as simple as you not putting lubrication on the inside of the brake shoes.
Lance’s Question: The check engine light on my 05 Crown Vic keeps coming on. The codes are P0316 and P0606. The car runs perfect otherwise, and a mechanic said he can’t find anything wrong. Why does the light keep coming on then?
ford-crown-victoria
Answer: Well, in your case, it’s a software glitch in the computer programming. Ford knows about it, and if you go to a dealer, they will reprogram the computer for free. The parameters in the computer software are wrong, so they trip those trouble codes when there really is nothing wrong. Once you get the computer reprogrammed, the light will go away.
Wilson’s Question: My 2003 Ford Diesel pickup keeps blowing the fuse for fuel heater. Even when I replace the fuse, it’s hard to start and stalls. What should I check first?
Answer: Yes, I had one like that a couple weeks ago. I ended up changing out what Ford calls the “horizontal fuel treatment module”–which is in reality a fuel pump module assembly. And interestingly enough, the new replacement fuel pump module did NOT have a heating element in it like the last one. They must have been having problems with the heater in the original design and have now left it out.
Question: My wife’s 97 taurus is losing power steering, but only at highway speeds. It works fine intown driving. No one around here can figure it out. Have you ever seen this?
Sam’s wife’s Ford Taurus is losing power steering, but only at highway speeds. It works normally at city stop and go driving.
Answer: Yes, I’ve seen that before. And believe it or not, it was the transmission range sensor going bad. That’s the sensor on the transmission that tells the computer what gear you’re in. They corrode internally and give the computer wrong information. This effects the electronics on the power steering and makes it hard to steer. I’ve fixed quite a few of these with the same exact problem, and putting a new range switch in fixed them all.
