Eric Boyd’s question:
I really believe that everyone that has listen to you are pleased. I have a 1998 Isuzu Amigo 2.2L 4cyl. I’m experiencing a lost of power. Sometimes when I take off, it takes off with power, but most of the time it boggs down like if it’s stopped up, or clogged. I changed the converter, oxygen sensors, spark plugs, and wires three years ago. I even had my timing checked. The engine runs fine while idling. While driving about 50 MPH or more, I get a very strong odor of gas fumes. I have to drive with my windows up most of the time and I have fill up every other day. My engine light is on, I had it checked. The codes show that my crank sensor and converter are bad. It also shows my #4 cylinder is misfiring. I changed the Ignition coil pack and spark plugs. Some power has been restored, but it still boggs down and uses a lot of gas. Some of the gas fumes have lifted, but faintly it’s still there. Mr. Kilmer what do you suggest?
Answer:
First, have compression readings taken on your cylinders. You may just have a worn out engine, especially number four cylinder which shows misfire. Those Isuzu engines are only good for so long, then they often just wear out. And of course, have the fuel system checked for leaks are you are smelling gas a lot, it could easily be leaking somewhere in the fuel supply system. ALSO, have the number four cylinder injector tested for leakage, because if it’s leaking (either externall or internally) you will get horrible gas mileage AND smell gasoline. Also, realize that an engine or fuel injection problem can ruin a catalytic converter, so the one you’ve already replaced could easily have been ruined again. Good Luck,
Carl’s question:
” My 2002 Infiniti I30 won’t start. The fuel pump won’t work, but it will start if I hot wire the fuel pump. Then it runs fine. I traced the problem to the main computer, which is burned inside. My question is this–what can I check BEFORE I buy a new expensive computer to ensure it won’t burn out again?”
Answer:
Well, you’re certainly being smart not just buying the computer and hoping that will fix the problem. You’d want to check the wiring going to the fuel pump for any type of short, and check the fuel pump to see if it’s using too many amps and is wearing out itself. BUT, also realize that the computer itself receives unfused power from MANY different sensors. So check them all, especially the idle air control sensor, because I’ve seen water intrude into the IAC sensor on those Infinitis, which shorts the sensor out. Then this feedbacks to the computer and shorts it out. I fixed one last year with the same problem as yours, and it was a leaking IAC valve that shorted out the fuel pump driver in the computer. Aren’t modern complex cars fun to work on?
Louis’s question:
“I have a 92 Infiniti M30. The left front crash sensor wiring was torn completely from the left crash sensor in a tire blowout. The harness plug was damaged. It has 3 cavities and 4 wires. The two opposite wires of the connector stayed in and the middle cavity appears to have the two wires yellow/grey or silver rings yanked out. I checked the factory manual wiring chart and it only shows a two cavity connector, which is the correct colors for the two wires that stayed in the connector but don’t show the 2 yellow/with silver ringed wires. I am really puzzled and wondered if you have an answer.”
Answer:
Well, my wiring diagram from All Data is the same as yours, it doesn’t show the two yellow with silver ringed wires either.It only shows the LG and the GY wires in my diagram. But it does say this, “DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPAIR, SPLICE OR MODIFY ANY AIR BAG HARNESS UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.” So I wouldn’t try repairing any of that harness if I were you. I would either buy the entire super expensive wiring harness from Infiniti, or I would just disconnect the air bag system and use my seat belts for safety.
